Reflections
of the Mindil Beach Markets
-Andrew
Jakubowicz
Mindil Beach Markets, Darwin, Australia,
June
23, 2002
Instead
of my usual Sunday night grind in Ohio (USA), which I would spend watching
television and eating leftovers, seventeen other students and I assembled
upon the Mindil Beach Market, Darwin, Australia, for a class project on
the beach markets and the sunset there. This photo essay is the result
of my own experience at the market.
Mindil Beach is protected from a paved road by a grassy knoll lined with palm trees and other Australian flora from its southern and eastern sides, surrounded form the north by the mangroves of the Darwin Botanical Gardens, leaving a western landscape that sports an amazing sunset over the ocean at dusk. The site of ancient Aboriginal burial grounds, Mindil Beach is located on the northwest side of Darwin, about a five-dollar cab ride from anywhere in the city, but a 15-minute walk form my hotel, the Alati Apartments.
Darwin, (population 80,000) is both the capital of the Northern Territory and Australia’s gateway to Southeast Asia. Darwin is an amazing city that has overcome major setbacks throughout its history. As Australia’s hardest-hit target during World War II, the city was nearly decimated. After rebuilding, Darwin was again hit on Christmas Eve, 1974, by Cyclone Tracey. But in true Darwin spirit, the city was rebuilt once again to what it is today.
The city combings the rough and rugged style of the Australian Outback with the flavor of an international community. My visit in June was the start of Darwin’s dry season, which gives sunny weathers that attract hundreds of thousands of visitors to its extensive beachfront. Being one of a handful of Australian cities in the Top End Darwin accommodates visitors on their way to explore the natural splendors of Kakadu and Lichfield National Parks. In all my experiences in the Northern Territory, I found the Darwin locals very welcoming.
The Mindil Beach Markets in Darwin was begun in 1987. Originally planned as a monthly event that would host about a hundred food vendors and entertainers looking to display their ware or talents for visitors. The market founders soon realized the epic popularity of the event and knew that a once in a month event would not be enough. Today the market is a bi-weekly event, hosting over 240 booths every Thursday and Sunday night during the dry season months of May-October. Vendors on the market sell a variety of cuisine such as Australian hamburgers (beef, beets, fried egg, all in a bun), Indonesian/Thai finger food, fresh fruit smoothies, Chinese chicken with noodles, calamari, and Satays to name a few. The market has also adopted a craft section showcasing a diverse range of artworks and talents such as home-made jewellery, hyena tattoos, sensual massages, tarot card reading, herbal soaps, and pieces of Aboriginal art.
As I approached the markets for the first time, my sense were assaulted by a rich smell of ethnic cooking mixed with the saltwater perfume of the warm evening air. Meanwhile I hear the sound of music form the strings of a guitar and sticks clapping, foot stomping of Aboriginal performances. These sounds serenaded us as we entered the market. The sight of Aboriginal women doing their native dances and the men slapping sticks together to make music arrested my attention. One could not help but wonder how it was that the colonial invasion and incursion of Europeans into Australia decimated the population of Aboriginals in Australia. It is believed that their numbers were greatly reduced by the introduction of foreign disease brought on by the Europeans and other acts of genocidal killings. The appropriations of Aboriginal land by Europeans also wiped out much of their culture.
One of those I spoke with at Mindil Beach was Michele Matts, a white woman whose adopted sister was Aborigine. To her, the condition of the Aborigines is saddening because many local Aborigines suffer from abuse and do not have the benefit of growing up in a stable household. She says a lot of the local Aborigines drink heavily and cannot take their kids to school or get a job, which does not really give the children a chance to excel. She also said the Aborigines are naturally very smart people and have the ability to succeed but either choose not to or are never really given the opportunity to do so. The situation can be compared in many respects to what has happened to the indigenous population of the Untied States. I was told that although the government offers all Aborigines free school and a stipend form the royalties of their land, many Aborigines do not use the free schooling provisions fully.
At about 6pm, I noticed that many people headed towards the beach for the observation of the sunset. As the sun fell below the horizon and the sky began to changed from fresh and lively to spiritual and sensual. The local guitar players began playing “Sexual Healing” by Marvin Gaye and encompassed a sexy and romantic mood that was an aphrodisiac of sorts. The gorgeous sunset and electric atmosphere made the sunset the highlight of my night.
The Mindil Beach Market is a very rich cultural experience that has people from all corner of the world inviting you to experience a part of their lifestyle. The location and scenery is tough to beat, and the live entertainment has something that appeals to everyone.